But it still works pretty well.Ī very late reply, but let me add my two-cents' worth. The only problem with this method is that you've got a tradeoff between soft pencil (easier to see line on the block) and hard (more detail). However, the iron-oxide powder gets everywhere, and carbon paper works nearly as well. This is what we used to do in art school. You can get a lot of detail this way, as the paper is very thin and hard (softer paper leads to less detail). Protect your blankets though against the oil as it has a very strong scent - and wear a mask as it is actually a bit toxic.Īnother slant on carbon paper is to use iron oxide paper, which is basically just using a cotton ball to rub iron oxide powder onto one side of the tracing paper. Oil of wintergreen can be directly applied to the surface and a photocopy laid on top - if run through an etching press you will get very good results. but i also like to be able to save the original in my sketchbook for later reference, and to track my progress with the medium. Sometimes i just draw on the lino itself. I usually start with a pretty detailed drawing from my sketchbook, though. i get a good visible line that won't fade. I usually use carbon paper, then trace with sharpie onto lino. I draw on paper with graphite and then transfer by rubbing. This is a good topic and cool to see everyone's answers. I usualy draw straight on the block as well, but sometime I use carbon paper, it's great on wood and a little less effective on lino. Oil of wintergreen works, but boy do I hate the smell of wintergreen. Unless it is something ultra complex like a portrait I draw directly onto the block using an HB pencil. on the back of the photocopy you are trying to transfer. This is a little less toxic, try oil of wintergreen. Lighter fluid can also work for this method, but again use a mask. Yes it is nasty and you should really wear a mask when using it, but it is effective. Its some real nasty stuff, so be careful if you go that route. It might be possible to do the transfer on a lower heat or for a shorter time and avoid this, but there would always be the risk of ruining a perfectly good piece of lino, so I think I'll stick to one of the other methods. It's not bad, but I'm sure it would be visible in the print. I tested out the ironing method but found that the lino bubbled up a bit. It is toxic, but if you wear a mask it is not so bad. This way, you can enlarge your drawing, and get a very accurate image transfer. It can also be used for transfering a drawn image onto a canvas if you want to paint it. I have used this method very successfully. You brush it on then rub it with one of those bevels that you use for wood and lino cuts (forget the name at the moment). Then using a brush, put some Xylene on, only a small portion at a time as it dries fast. You print a copy of your image (mirror if you want it the right way around), then place it print side down onto the surface you want the image on. You can also use a chemical called Xylene to transfer printed images (printed from your computer). I will definitely give it a try on lino and report back. You can also use a clear blender pen to transfer photo copies this should be done outside or with good ventilation as with the acetone. I've used this for transfering onto wood but not lino, try it on a scrap piece. You can transfer photo copies using a hot iron or a wood burning tool with a flat attachment. I then spray it with shalack so my lines dont smudge rub away. I use the simple method of taking my image and rubbing the back with a 9B graphite stick (good and dark) then tape my image to my block and trace the lines. I will be using water-based ink so I don't want to use something that is water-soluble. Is this the way most people do it? Can you use a xerox copy instead? I have always just used graphite/carbon paper, but the image can tend to disappear over time, especially if you want to check your progress. Hi! I saw in his fantastic sequence on reduction printing that vertigo25 transfers his images to lino using a laser print and acetone.
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